DURAMENTEI: Tantantei Wonton Disciple; Kameido, Tokyo

Whenever I see a new ramen shop open up, I’ve got a habit where I immediately try to figure out where the master trained. In the end, it doesn’t make much of a difference since I’ll go regardless, but there is a short list of ramen masters that peak my interest if their disciples open a shop of their own. DURAMENTEI was one that fell in to this category being a former Yakumo disciple, famous for their divine wonton offerings. My ever growing ramen shop hit list suddenly had a new #1 and I had an itching to cross it off as soon as possible. The shop however isn’t in the most convenient location so I snuck away for an extended weekday lunch disguised as a client meeting to grab a bowl. I was first to arrive coming five minutes before they opened, but the shop quickly filled up so be sure to time it accordingly if you’re pressed for time. I definitely would have had to skip out if I came 30 minutes later seeing the line upon leaving.

Ticket machine is directly to the right as you step in to the shop. No English on the menu so I’ll do my best to translate it here. No promises on whether the menu is the same though as this was from 2023, but hopefully it helps for anyone referencing this. So each button on the top row will get you a Shina Soba Shiro, or ramen with white soy sauce, in varying topping options. On the very left is a regular bowl with no additional toppings and it is followed by one with Ajitama egg, Pork Wontons (4), Mixed Wontons (2 each), and Shrimp Wontons (4). Second row is the Shina Soba Kuro, or ramen with black soy sauce, and the correlating topping options are the same as the above. The lone button on the third row is for extra noodles while the fourth row are extra toppings of Ajitama egg, Nori dried seaweed, Menma bamboo shoots, and Chashu. Fifth row is for wontons which are served separately. From the left is Pork wonton (2), Mix wonton (1 each), Shrimp wonton (2), Pork Wonton (4), Mix Wonton (2 each), and Shrimp Wonton (4). Final blue button is for beer.

As DURAMENTEI is a Yakumo disciple, I of course had to order their mixed wonton bowl opting for the white shoyu variation since it was the first row offering (pro tip, the top row is almost always any shop’s most recommended menu item). Took about 10 minutes for them to prepare the ramen and I was soon presented with this absolutely gorgeous bowl. A golden soup encapsulated a beautiful fold of noodles which cushioned the perfectly prepared toppings. Two each of the pork and shrimp wontons create a circle with the menma and pork chashu…a delicious circumference surrounding a generous mound of green onions. Visually, this was impeccable, and the fact that they found these unique bowls to house this ramen added to the experience. Many photos were taken, but I knew I had to get my first sip in before it cooled.

Soup is what you’d expect if you’d ever dined at Yakumo which also incorporates this black & white, Ying & Yang soup varieties. I thought the white shoyu had that gentle, subtle flavor profile you’d want with a shio ramen, but with that umami, savory impact you would expect with shoyu. If I’m being completely honest, the disciple hadn’t overtaken the master yet, but damn is it close. Broth has an incredible depth coming from the pork and chicken bones, but an elevated sense of savoriness from the dried fish. It’s not a super obvious flavor profile at first, but it’s accentuated by the shio tare seasoning and sure enough I was licking the bowl by the end of my meal. The golden broth is unusually addicting for such a light soup and while I was scraping for more, I left completely satisfied like the perfect drag from a cigarette post nightcap glass of whisky.

Noodles were no slouch either and the pairing is exactly what I would expect from a master with such prestigious background. Each strand has a phenomenal snap and the slurpability was on point. Often overlooked with quality noodles is the texture contrast with the toppings and I was pleased with the overall balance of this bowl. Wonton skins had a mochi-mochi, pillowy chew to them which counteracts that crisp noodles perfectly. Chashu hear is meaty and menma were crunchy so you get the whole spectrum of food textures with this dish.

With that said, as they are a Yakumo lineage shop, it would be a disservice if I didn’t give more lip service to these plump, delicious wontons. Starting with the pork, I thought the filling had a great juiciness to them and wonderful shoyu seasoning that allowed it to hold up on it’s own. Shrimp was a bit more delicate and I appreciate the plump texture they left for them. Not a huge fan of a shrimp paste wonton, so I love when I can bite in to them and actually feel the bits of shrimp in them. Often times you would find ramen shops offering very low profile wontons to not disturb the balance of the ramen, but DURAMENTEI and the rest of the Yakumo crew are the exception where you can leave satisfied ordering just the dumplings.

If I’m being super picky, my one critique was probably the chashu which I could have done without it. Felt a bit out of place to me as it was overshadowed by the star wontons and it could have taken an even further backseat with something thinner or less present. Still, very few cons for an otherwise delicious bowl of ramen. Located out towards Kameido, shop isn’t a super convenient one to get to if you’re coming from central Tokyo, but I wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a love of wonton ramen shops. If you still find yourself a bit intimidated making the trek yourself, know that I do offer ramen tours that might help you get accustomed to eating in ramen shops. Find them on AirBnB and become a ramen hunter yourself!